Driving Historic Military Vehicles
Basics:
We often get asked by people thinking about buying or have purchased their first ex-military vehicle for tips on driving them - so we have put together some basic advice:
When driving any historic vehicle, the advice is to drive very conservatively - modern technology like powered steering and brakes have made driving much easier and safer in modern times; allow extra braking distance and reduce speed. Old style tyres are far less efficient, especially in wet and icy conditions. Period headlights are less effective and many owners use new Halogen replacements to increase brightness. Handbrakes are notoriously poor, so use chocks whenever you park. Remember that vintage petrol and speed gauges are far less accurate than their modern equivalents - a spare jerry can of fuel is an essential.
In event of breakdowns, carry high-viz jackets, a warning triangle and a torch. Many members also carry battery powered clip on flashing emergency lights.
Increasing the visibility of our low profile and expertly camouflaged vehicles is important - a simple solution is to simply drive with lights on. If your vehicle is open, drive in high visibilty vests or jackets. Many owners choose to retrofit indicators to give warning when turning and some choose to add a trailer board on the back of their vehicles, plugged into rear electrics to increase visibility of rear lights. If you do this, the triangular reflectors on trailer boards should be replaced with round ones. Alternatively you can use slow vehicle stickers or back plates. The use of amber flashing "slow load" lights are only permitted in some cases.
Increasing the visibility of our low profile and expertly camouflaged vehicles is important - a simple solution is to simply drive with lights on. If your vehicle is open, drive in high visibilty vests or jackets. Many owners choose to retrofit indicators to give warning when turning and some choose to add a trailer board on the back of their vehicles, plugged into rear electrics to increase visibility of rear lights. If you do this, the triangular reflectors on trailer boards should be replaced with round ones. Alternatively you can use slow vehicle stickers or back plates. The use of amber flashing "slow load" lights are only permitted in some cases.
Fuel - E10 fuel was introduced because it reduces emissions -it contains up to 10% bio-ethanol in the blend. Produced from crops such as sugar beet, bio-ethanol is renewable and not a fossil fuel. However, ethanol is hygroscopic - which means it attracts water that can lead to condensation in fuel tanks, fuel lines and carburettors and cause corrosion in brass, copper, lead, tin and zinc components. Problems identified included degradation to fuel hoses and seals, blocked fuel filters, damaged fuel pumps, corroded carbs, blocked injectors and corrosion in fuel tanks. Rubber is particularly affected. For this reason, many owners prefer E5 (which contains only 5% ethanol) and some use an ethanol protective or inhibitor additive. The FBHVC have further details here
Recently there have been problems refuelling vehicles with fuel tank access in the boot or under the bonnet - click here for more details.
Recently there have been problems refuelling vehicles with fuel tank access in the boot or under the bonnet - click here for more details.
Since 2000, leaded fuel has not been available but there is a range of additives available which add the required lubricants to protect the fuel system, safeguarding it against the harmful effects of modern fuel. Likewise, many modern types of antifreeze- the red, orange or pink varieties that contain OAT technology or green that contain HOAT - have beeen known to cause problems in historic engines. It is recommended to use the blue varieties and check they are suitable for older vehicles.
If your vehicle is left hand drive, overtaking can be more difficult - make sure your mirrors are fit for purpose - you can add removable mirrors so they can be removed for display.
Many owners drive their vehicles on motorways - there are no minimum speeds unless a blue speed sign is present.
Many owners drive their vehicles on motorways - there are no minimum speeds unless a blue speed sign is present.
Many historic vehicles do not have windscreen wipers - so make adjustments - water and rain disersal products work really well - when applied it helps disperse raindrops and gives a clearer view.
It's a small thing but don't forget that we have become used to internal lights in modern cars to help accessing a vehicle in the dark - carry a torch!
If your vehicle is open or not completely shower proof, carry bin liners to prevent the seats from becoming soggy. If you intend to park and display a ticket, carry a good adhesive tape to secure parking tickets in a visible location.
Historic vehicles do not benefit from anti-corrosion technology, so rust is a big enemy. Check regularly and address any signs of rust quickly. Avoid salted roads in winter or wash the vehicle afterwards. Make sure that vehicles are kept dry in a well ventilated store or are covered.
There is no requirement to retrofit seat belts.
See our separate guides to Tax and MOT and driving abroad.
It's a small thing but don't forget that we have become used to internal lights in modern cars to help accessing a vehicle in the dark - carry a torch!
If your vehicle is open or not completely shower proof, carry bin liners to prevent the seats from becoming soggy. If you intend to park and display a ticket, carry a good adhesive tape to secure parking tickets in a visible location.
Historic vehicles do not benefit from anti-corrosion technology, so rust is a big enemy. Check regularly and address any signs of rust quickly. Avoid salted roads in winter or wash the vehicle afterwards. Make sure that vehicles are kept dry in a well ventilated store or are covered.
There is no requirement to retrofit seat belts.
See our separate guides to Tax and MOT and driving abroad.
Laying up your military vehicle for the winter:
As winter approaches each year and Remembrance Sunday events pass, owners start to think about laying their vehicles up for the winter.
What owners choose to do varies, according to factors such as the type of vehicle, how long it will be until its next outing and the type of building it will be stored in.
A good start is to put the vehicle away clean – if you have driven over salted roads, wash any residue of salt away. However, one of the most important things is to keep the vehicle as dry as possible whilst in storage, so make sure the vehicle is dry before being put away.
Another priority is to ensure that the correct anti-freeze has been topped up for the winter – red, orange, pink and green varieties tend to be unsuitable for historic vehicles and blue antifreeze is the preferred choice. The FBHVC has further advice here.
Some people drain the fuel system completely, especially if they plan to work on the vehicle over the winter. Extreme care should be taken when removing the fuel because vapours emitted are highly flammable and static charge can build easily. However, some believe that draining causes certain components such as pipes and seals, to dry out and weaken, so another option is to drain the carburettor float bowl and remove any free water and sediment.
Others choose to leave fuel in the tank. Now that ethanol (which is acidic) is blended into E5 and E10 petrol, ethanol induced corrosion which is where it combines with water and becomes corrosive, is a concern. Ethanol is hygroscopic and attracts water but when temperatures fall, the water can separate out, into the fuel system, causing corrosion. A fuel additive called inhibitor additive can provide additional protection and is a worthwhile investment. Leaving E5 in the fuel tank and the rest of the fuel system should not be an issue provided the fuel system is free from water. It is recommended that fuel tanks are kept 2/3 to 3/4 full. This helps to minimize the space available for condensation to occur but allows enough room for a top up with fresh fuel after the lay-up to restore some of the lost volatility of the stored fuel and aid starting.
The main cause of corrosion in diesel vehicle fuel systems is free water. It is recommended to drain the bottom of the fuel tank at least annually so that any water that has accumulated in the bottom of the tank is removed before it corrodes or leads to mold that will block the system. Diesel bought between November and March is slightly modified to suit winter conditions so try and avoid laying a vehicle up with summer grade diesel.
When restarting, it is important to check for cracking in pipes before starting up and then check for leaks afterwards.
What owners choose to do varies, according to factors such as the type of vehicle, how long it will be until its next outing and the type of building it will be stored in.
A good start is to put the vehicle away clean – if you have driven over salted roads, wash any residue of salt away. However, one of the most important things is to keep the vehicle as dry as possible whilst in storage, so make sure the vehicle is dry before being put away.
Another priority is to ensure that the correct anti-freeze has been topped up for the winter – red, orange, pink and green varieties tend to be unsuitable for historic vehicles and blue antifreeze is the preferred choice. The FBHVC has further advice here.
Some people drain the fuel system completely, especially if they plan to work on the vehicle over the winter. Extreme care should be taken when removing the fuel because vapours emitted are highly flammable and static charge can build easily. However, some believe that draining causes certain components such as pipes and seals, to dry out and weaken, so another option is to drain the carburettor float bowl and remove any free water and sediment.
Others choose to leave fuel in the tank. Now that ethanol (which is acidic) is blended into E5 and E10 petrol, ethanol induced corrosion which is where it combines with water and becomes corrosive, is a concern. Ethanol is hygroscopic and attracts water but when temperatures fall, the water can separate out, into the fuel system, causing corrosion. A fuel additive called inhibitor additive can provide additional protection and is a worthwhile investment. Leaving E5 in the fuel tank and the rest of the fuel system should not be an issue provided the fuel system is free from water. It is recommended that fuel tanks are kept 2/3 to 3/4 full. This helps to minimize the space available for condensation to occur but allows enough room for a top up with fresh fuel after the lay-up to restore some of the lost volatility of the stored fuel and aid starting.
The main cause of corrosion in diesel vehicle fuel systems is free water. It is recommended to drain the bottom of the fuel tank at least annually so that any water that has accumulated in the bottom of the tank is removed before it corrodes or leads to mold that will block the system. Diesel bought between November and March is slightly modified to suit winter conditions so try and avoid laying a vehicle up with summer grade diesel.
When restarting, it is important to check for cracking in pipes before starting up and then check for leaks afterwards.
